Monday, May 31, 2010

Shame and Embarrassment

My whole life I've grown up loving my country and everything we stand for. I love the basic tenants of our government (even though it doesn't seem the separation between church and state is as clear as dear Mr. Jefferson wanted it to be) and I love the rights that I have as an American. I love my friends and family and how we have the freedom to be together and do what we wish.

There have been instances though, which I have been made painfully aware of while here, where I am truly embarrassed to be associated with other Americans. Embarrassment because I can see, clearer than ever, how rude, insensitive, and coarse some Americans are. What citizen of another nationality would sit in a Swedish cafe and lambast the country's love of its royal family and sneer at the pride they take in the crown princess's wedding?

I could have died.

We are crude. We are loud. Our sense of humor tends towards vulgarity and female abuse. And what about respect? Would you not think that with the country being founded by the prudes of European society we would have developed a culture that centers around respect? Apparently not.

What makes this worse, is that these two individuals who so insensitively criticized the royal family are both Cornell students. One, in particular, succeeded in being so loud and rude about his opinions that our group (three Americans including myself, two Austrians, a Hungarian, a Kiwi, and a Frenchwoman) earned the dirty looks of the Swedes sitting at neighboring tables.

I was so irritated that after I checked his outburst, I couldn't concentrate on studying any longer and sat next to my Austrian friend trying to explain the factor of relatedness in bees to her. I believe the other American caught my death stares at the excessively rude individual and was more subdued for it. My Austrian friend, Isolde, could very well tell that I was bothered too.

Biking back from the library and talking to her just now, I felt profound relief as I heard her explain that although there were individuals in our group who fit the American stereotype, I was most certainly not one of them. But the anger and disappointment I felt was so crushing, that the depression still has not lifted. What to do?

The pressure I felt coming here as an American to show the best image of our country that I could was relieved little by little as I made more and more foreign friends (especially with Swedes). And now after this shocking incident, the pressure has descended once again and made me realize that no matter how much one works to change a world view, there will always be twice the number to reverse it again.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Time Waits For No Man, But I Wish It Would Wait For Me

It's been a while since my last serious post and so much has happened since then.

There are definitely advantages to traveling, that goes without saying, but there are just as many advantages to staying in one place. What I wish I'd done sooner was put down some roots here in Uppsala and gotten to know my fellow nation members. We'll always have regrets though, so all anyone can ever do is to live life with as few of them as possible.

I've learned so much from my time abroad that it's almost impossible to keep track of all the lessons. This post is to help do that, but more let everyone else know what wonders can be discovered when you leave your home and decide to set up shop elsewhere.

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First, when you are presented with a new opportunity, no matter what kind of opportunity it is, seize it by the throat and wring everything you can from it. Actually, that sounds a bit brutal doesn't it? I realize it might sound uncouth, but really "Get the most out of it" just doesn't convey the same type of mental imagery and also sounds a bit weak to me.

My opportunity was to go abroad. Did I get the most from it? I think so! Or at least I tried.

In terms of traveling, I don't think I've had such an amazing time before. I managed to see Paris, Granville, the Mont Saint Michel, San Malo, the Emerald Coast, and a few other places in Bretagne and Normandy I can't quite remember, Brussels, Waterloo, Louvain la Neuve, Bruges, Aachen, Maastricht, Amsterdam, Prague, Kutna Hora, Terezin, Kiruna, Björkliden, Abisko, Stockholm, Falun, Borlange, Rome, Copenhagen, and Helsingør.

Suffice it to say, after spending the first half of the semester running around, it was nice to stay put for a while. I believe I've definitely made the most of Ryanair and the Swedish rail system.

And have I made the most of my time here, rooted in Sweden?

I say that I wish I'd put roots down here in this beautiful city earlier, but now what I wish is that I'd had the opportunity to stay here longer than a semester. People have warned me about the Swedish mentality and how they act towards outsiders. They're supposed to be cold and distant until you break through their icy exterior and realize they're all cuddles and snapps. I don't think I've had to put forth so much effort as I thought I would, but perhaps that's because I came prepared. In any case, I believe wholeheartedly that I've achieved that and am proud to call some of the most amazing people I've ever met my dear friends.

Being open, honest, and outgoing can get you so far that it's hard to imagine how I might have survived here if I'd been just a smidgen shyer. Okay, so I could have survived, but I wouldn't have been able to live it up as I have been this past month and a half.

When I returned from Belgium and decided to stop traveling for a while, I figured it was as good a time as any to keep working. I'd worked once before as a barback for the pub with John (one of the barhosts) and really enjoyed it, and so looked forward to getting called back again for more work. Little did I know what wonders awaited me.

Before anyone else, I have to thank Hannes, the 3rd Curator of Varmlands Nation, for everything he's done, which is everything, essentially. I went in pretty late in the semester to sign up for work, and after talking to him and signing up, he recommended me for work when the bar hosts were looking for pub workers. He recommended me on the basis of a "good vibe," so to that, Hannes, I say tack så mycket!

I'm also really grateful to my friend John, one of the bar hosts, who was my first boss and really got me involved in the nation. He's probably one of the most easygoing and fun people I've met here. That's another reason I'm so sad to be leaving Sweden already-- all the people who I've become close to here in Varmlands Nation are so open, understanding, energetic, and full of life. These are people I can be ridiculous with without worrying how they'll perceive me. Sometimes they even increase the level of weirdness and ridiculousness I am capable of expressing.

After I'd worked at the pub a few more times, I became familiar with Linda, who works in the kitchen, and Klara, who is the Kitchen master, and Lotta, who works in the cafe and sometimes pub as well. These girls are so awesome, it's incredible. Demure Swedish girls? Not! They have so much energy and are so outgoing I can't understand how I didn't meet them earlier.

Then of course there's Christopher Robin, seriously one of the most adorable people I've ever met, Gustaf, who I nicknamed Vasaloppet the first day I met him, and Mikael and Gabriella, definitely two of the most sweet and loving people at the nation. There are people who I only got to know towards the end of my time here, like Gozzi, Filip, and Johan, and who I will be very sad to leave after knowing them for only this last short month. Of course there are others, but to list them all and explain how they've made my experience here so much richer would take much more than a simple blog post.

Once you've been "accepted" into a circle, then you know everyone. About a week after I started hanging out at Varmlands and working there regularly, I was immersed in a sea of Swedish love. Suddenly I had tripled my circle of friends and was incapable of understanding over half the notifications that popped up on my Facebook news feed. Another reason to learn Swedish.

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Second, whenever you're presented with a task, give more than 110%. People really appreciate hard work and especially if you're working with a smile.

I think because everyone was so open and because they welcomed me with open arms, I was that much more willing to do what I could for the nation. The pay is bad, but the company that I have while I'm there is priceless.

Serving is an awesome experience because you learn so much about how an organization operates, how to work with other types of people in a job that is more physically labor intensive than school courses, how to please other people, and have fun doing it. I love being a bar back and running up and down those 3 flights of stairs between the pub, main hall, and kitchen. I love greeting people at the door. I love being a bartender and doling out liquid fun, as well as learning to make new drinks.

The cool thing about working with bartenders too is that they tend to be not just an endless source of fun and cheer, but they are also very creative people. If you spend so much of your time mixing flavors and perfecting pouring layers, there's no way you'd be boring.

They also make cleaning FUN. Who knew? I actually enjoyed scrubbing the kitchen sink and mopping the floor. My mom would kill to have me clean at home like I do at the Nation, hahaha.

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My third and last lesson for this post is something I learned from Mattias Klum, a National Geographic photographer and the closest thing to a hero I've ever had, and that is to stay naked.
Nakedness in every sense of the word is not really seen as anything positive in our society. People become distrustful as they get older, walling themselves off from others, only opening up to certain people and socializing in familiar circles.

Mattias Klum explained to a very excited and nervous, shaky me who went to go talk to him during a break in his presentation, that he tries his best to stay in this "naked" state, as he referred to it. When people put up walls, he explained, it's a very natural thing to do and in this society, something very necessary. But he works hard to keep those walls down, sharing his ideas and inciting passion by making a very fundamental connection between himself and other people.

This idea comes across in all his photos, with which he tries to link the heart and mind- a recipe for passion.

But why does it matter so much that you keep the walls down if it's such a natural part of socialization?

I believe these protective mental blockades are detrimental to a person's ability to realize their full potential in any circumstances. When you pull down the shields it becomes easier to talk and relate to other people, which encourages an equally open response. This automatically makes someone a more outgoing and confident person because they need to concentrate so much less on what to hide and what to reveal as opposed to being free and open.

I hadn't realized how important this idea of vulnerability and nakedness was until I really thought about what it was that I was doing differently here compared to what I'd been doing up until I met the nation members. Raph mentioned he though Sweden changed me in a few ways, one of them being that I'd become more outgoing. I think that's definitely true and in that respect I have one other person to thank as well.

Starting with Sarah, who changed me from a misanthropic, antisocial nerd into a people-loving, socially fluent dork, I've come to this point where all my Swedish friends have helped me become more confident and understand life beyond my home and university. They've also shown me that the pool of people who are cool and nerdy is not as small as I'd feared. Where else would you find a mansionful of people who drink and sing until 8 in the morning and then go to a LAN party the next day?

When I became involved with this close community of people, I wasn't conscious of the fact that I was indeed being more open and unguarded. But after thinking about how much I'd miss everyone after I left, I got to wondering why that was so. After all, how many people do you meet and know for a few months then feel heartbroken about leaving? It's because we didn't have to be guarded around each other and felt comfortable to joke around and work together as if we'd known each other the entire semester.

It's going to be tough to leave this beautiful city.


Saturday, May 1, 2010

With love, Eyjafjalljökull

As I didn't manage to put up pictures in my last post, here is a selection of my favorites from my time in France and Belgium. Unfortunately, I didn't bring my camera to Louvain la Neuve when we went to hang out, but I at least have a few things to show you all!

This is the harbor at Granville where the Werbroucks have their boat. She's one of the biggest (if not the biggest) in the harbor, which is cool, but also the reason why it was difficult to set her back in the water.

With the high winds the area had been getting, the harbor master was worried about the size of the boat and how dangerous it might be while trying to lower it back into the harbor. Because of that we didn't get to go sailing, but it was still very rewarding to work on the boat, see it and eat on it, and also explore Granville.

We made a trip to Saint Malo, a very old, walled city in Brittany that sits on the English Channel. It was a city once notorious for being home to French privateers and pirates.

These days the city is a great tourist attraction and is also featured in a very popular song by Hugues Aufray, Santiano.

We also headed to the Mont Saint-Michel, a tidal island and also apparently a commune in Normandy. The island has a population of 41.

The story goes that St. Michael the Archangel appeared to St. Aubert, bishop of Auvranches in 708 and told him to build a church on the islet. The bishop ignored the visions until the angel burned a hole in the bishop's skull...

Then there was also the Cote D'emeraude! Such beauty!

The colors were so intense and rich, it is ridiculous to think that a mere picture can convey the magnitude of beauty and emotion that this kind of landscape can evoke.

We didn't go inside the castle because it would have taken too long and cost money, but the walk around the coast was probably better than anything you would find in the stone fort.

When we returned to Belgium, Cedric took me around to Waterloo where we saw the lion and a cool panorama of the battle as well as the military museum in Brussels, which was unfortunately undergoing a lot of maintenance so many of the rooms were closed off.

We also picked up his friend, Jenni, who he met in Tennessee and was visiting from her semester abroad in France.

That evening we headed out to Louvain la Neuve for some famous fries and I ended up getting a ridiculous baguette with sausage in it and topped off with a massive amount of fries...I suspect the shop owner aimed to kill me via cardiac arrest.

We met up with his two other friends Martin (on the left) and Antoine (on the right) who are both engineers and go to school at Louvain la Neuve.

We were also joined by Cedric's cousin and her boyfriend later that evening. We each ordered and the drinks came in these massive glasses, vases really, with little napkins tied around them like neckerchiefs. Very cute.

Then a bbq the next day!
Chilling ouuuuuut. Such a relaxing day. This is apparently an average Saturday for the Werbrouck family.

I wish I could be swinging in that hammock again...

That weekend when we went out to Louvain la Neuve again, keep in mind this is a massive college town (more like a small city now), we hit up a "Circle," something like a cross between a Swedish student nation and a fraternity. You would join a circle depending on certain characteristics you shared with other individuals, like your major or where you were from.

The Circle we ended up going to was one for engineers- and I would like to reiterate (for those of you who know me) my love for engineers. If they aren't awkward, socially retarded introverts, then engineers are by far the most amazing people in the world. They are outspoken, fun-loving people who aren't afraid to look foolish and that makes them all the more interesting.

At one point, they were playing this song at the bar and suddenly all the students, mostly dressed in their red engineering sweaters, charged the bar and with their arms either around each other or reaching over the bar jumped and danced like they were a single organism, the scene resembling something of a small mosh pit.

At the chorus the mob got even crazier and the bartenders started throwing buckets of water over the crowd. Interestingly enough, this seemed to fuel the dancing students' rhythmic groove and still they continued!

It was awesome.

Jenni and I also made a day trip out to Bruges where we had some interesting adventures.
First I'd like to comment on some very interesting chocolates we saw in the windows of some of the chocolate shops...

But aside from that, Bruges is most definitely a beautiful city, filled with cafes, lace, and canals.
Unfortunately my camera died before we got to the most beautiful area of the city, so I don't have any pictures of that. But imagine this canal:

...flowing down and if you follow it, you end up in a beautiful park with swans everywhere and small stone bridges spanning the canal's width. On one side you have small shops selling waffles and sandwiches, a fountain with horses' heads spewing water for the cabbies to fill their buckets and water their hardworking steeds, and a fenced in park for waterfowl with a large swan's nest built only a meter away from the rail with people hanging over it to take photos.

On the other side you have a large, walled area with a convent inside. When you pass through the gate, there are rows upon rows of small white houses fronted with white walls in which there have been set low doorways with a metal bell.

The gardens in the area are planted with yellow and white flowers, narcissus and daffodils i think, and the roads paved with cobblestone.

If any of you have seen the movie "In Bruges" this is a photo taken from the top of the tower in the main square. I was tempted to lay in the square face down in front of the tower so that Jenni could take a photo of me like I'd just jumped, but sadly I wasn't ready to look so ridiculous in front of so many people.

The following day, we made a trip into Brussels with Wivine (Cedric's mother) to meet up with Cedric and Morgane and had lunch there. After some walking around we passed through the usual sights: the cathedral where the royal family has their marriages, the Grand Place, EU buildings, saw the street where the US embassy has a closed street all to itself (who the hell knows why), the royal palace, etc...

A tribute to my favorite beer thus far: DELIRIUM :)


And here I leave you with my final image from the last day I had in Belgium:

It's Raph's old house! Wivine took me into his town before we headed to the airport so I could see what the village looked like and the house he grew up in. Apparently the house is bigger now because the current residents added an extension, but the hedges are still the same ones Raph's family planted and that willow tree is still the same one he broke branches from to hit people with.